This has been my project for a while now.. it's still a ways from being done. Basically... someone somewhere down the line figured out that the Ford OHC 2.3 (as found in Ranger, Mustang, Merkur, Thunderbird, Cougar, etc) and Volvo B234F had a LOT in common. Holding the headgaskets over eachother, the water passages line up, most of the oil ports line up, the cylinders are spaced the same, all the headbolts are in the same locations, etc.
Basically, Ford's SOHC head flows like a soda straw, and the Volvo head flows like the Mississippi... there is much power to be gained by converting to the DOHC head. Not just that, but the aluminum head (as opposed to cast iron) is a giant weight saver, and definitely helps to balance the car a little better. So.. here's what it entails:
Weld a block to the back of the head to cover the water jackets and one additional oil drainback port.
Weld shut the center oil drain hole and reduce in size the outer two.
Block off the coolant bypass hole, but don't use this kind of plug.. use a recessed square type so that it clears the water pump.
The Ford block feeds oil through the small hole near the head bolt. The Volvo head does not have this hole. A hole must be drilled to route oil to the upper level of the head, where the head's oil passages will distribute it out to the lifters. A line can be run externally to the upper head, or the head can be built up with filler rod (as pictured) and drilled internally.
Custom manifolds must be built, standalone management should be used, custom pistons must be ordered (Diamond Pistons has the dimensions on file), and the timing belt/tensioner situation must be adressed.
So far, I'm planning on using a '91 Stealth SOHC belt in conjunction with round tooth pullies from a Ranger, spaced .465 outward from the original location. Without the spacers, the alignment is off:
Ford tensioner bolted to Volvo head. It will need an arc cut into it and another hole drilled/tapped in the head to make it work... I will probably fab up a new bracket that mounts to the existing holes in the head.
I had to drill/tap a hole for the oil return since the block I am using is from a '95 Ranger (N/A).
Crank position ring as used on EDIS block... should prove useful for a standalone.
I'll be running the Diamond pistons, a 2.5L stroker crank, Crower sportsman rods, the Ranger EDIS block, one-piece stainless exhaust valves, a mandrel header, custom plenum intake, lots of boost, etc... it should make some power. Almost all the conversions currently running are making over 400 at the wheels, and the guys who built/drive them still swear by the engine as a daily driver.
More info:
Stackz' conversion
SDSefi-managed 2300-16v
MerkurTech 16v info page
I guess this isn't really useful for most of MNSC... but that's what I've been up to lately.
Colin


















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